Roma  -  Bari (532 km)  -  Via Appia

Itinerary of a pilgrimage walked in 21 days in March/April 2004.  Short route descriptions with main monuments and overnight addresses (rel = religious institution, Ch = Church, bold = used by us)  Maps used:  Deutsche Shell Road Atlas  1:200.000.

 

Section I:  Roma – Terracina (116 km)  -  through hills and valleys of Lazio

 

  1. Route:   Roma – Ciampino – Marino - Rocca di Papa (20 km)

Leave Rome by the Colosseo, taking first direction Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, then through the Porto San Sebastiano, along the Via Appia (busy).  Pass an inconspicuous little church Sta Maria in Palmis (Quo Vadis) to the left.  Opposite the church , take a gate with a gravelpath to the catacombe S Sebastiano.  Continue on the gravel path.  Leads to the Via Appia Antica (gravestones, monuments and antique pavement).  After a short while the road becomes car-free, running arrow-straight, about 15 km.  Becomes a rubbish dump.  Carry on, climb over a fence and then onto a small road to the left past the airport Ciampino (bars, restaurants)  SS 217.  Road is busy but feasible.  Follow the road, don’t go into Marino.  The hotels are along the lakeside.  Beautiful views.  Past the lake left a large religious institution (Maria Immaculata - was full they said).  Shortly thereafter along the road (Rocca di Papa) several restaurants and B&B.

Roma              Quo Vadis – Catacombe S Sebastiano

B&B                      Colosseo -  Sra Marziali tel 670452565/3336845819 Via Labicana 29

Marino

Hotel: (+8)      Dei Pini - Via Nettuense vecchia 116 (Frattochie) tel 06-93547028

                        Al Cancellone - Via Romana S.N.C. tel 06-93665271

Rocca di Papa

B&B                Villa – Via delle Barozze 79, ang. via dei Laghi tel 069496472

      Rel                         Centro spirituale suore Maria Immaculata

 

  1. Route: Rocca  di Papa – Nemi - Velletri – Cori (24 km)

Continue on the SS 217 past the turn-off to Nemi.  Road remains rather busy and narrow.  Velletri lies off the road.  15 minutes to the basilica San Clemente and the Porta Napolitana.  Road to Cori is busy.  Half-way take the turn-ff to Cori Alto (Cori Basso is much lower).  After the quarry the road becomes nicely quiet.  The Santuario Soccorso lies another 100m above Cori Alto (phone in advance for accommodation).

Nemi

Hotel: (+1)      Al Rifugio - Via Nemorense 22 tel 06-9368686

                        Al Bosco - Via Nemorense 1 tel 06-9368093

Rel                   Villa Gesu e Maria – Via Nemorense 59 tel 069368043

Velletri            Ch San Clemente – Porto Napolitano

Hotel (+2)        Roma - Viale Roma 26 tel 06-9631225

                        Al Falchetto - Via Appia Nuova KM 32  tel 06-9631321

Rel                   S Maria dell’Acero – Via colle dell Acero 165 tel 069633324

Giulianello

Hotel:               Luna nuova di marzo  tel 06-9664033

Cori                Santuario Soccorso

Hotel:               Casale Stoza - Santa Maria delle grazie tel 06-96610021

                        Del Colle – Via del Colle tel 06-9679127

Rel:                  Padres Trinitari - via del soccorso 1 tel 069677766/069678127

 

  1. Route:  Cori - Norma –  Sermoneta – Bassiano - Sezze (28 km)

From Cori Alto a small winding mountain path to the road to Norma (ask the locals).  After 45 min first right on a T junction right, then on another T junction left. Nice road, climbs slowly.  Before Norma the Norba ruins.  There is a cut-through to the road into the valley.  Norma remains left, the road down into the valley goes right (no sign - ask).  Very steep descent with endless hairpins (there is a bus).  At the bottom, the Cistercienser abbey,  closes at lunchtime.  Sermoneta lies to the right, uphill.  The road to Bassiano is beautiful, but climbs steadily.  Descends towards Sezze, then steeply up again into the town.  There are 2 hotels (with good restaurants) in the area Le Colli, 2 km outside town, direction Priverno

Norma:            Norba

Hotel:               Villa del Cardinale – Via dei colli 07-73354611

Sermoneta:      Abbazia di Valvisciolo, castello 

Hotel:               Principe Serrone – Via del Serrone 1  tel 07-7330343

Sezze:              Borgo

Hotel:               Da Santuccio – Via S Sebastiano e Rocco 60 tel 07-73888573

                        Da Barbitto – Via Colli 47  07-73888523

 

  1. Route:  Sezze - Priverno  –  Fossa Nova (20 km)

Nice descent from Le Colli to the main road.  The road (SS 156 to Frosinone ) is OK. After a short while a sign to the right to Fossa Nova.  Meanders past Priverno and Castello San Martino.  In the Abbazia Fossa Nova a museum and memorial chapel to St  Thomas Aquino (ask)

Priverno:       Castel San Martino,

Fossanova:      Abbazia (Thomas Aquinas)

      Hotel                     Albergo Abbazia Fossa Nova

 

  1. Route:  Fossa Nova – Terracina (24 km)

We did not walk this stretch, but took the train to San Biaggio at station Fossa Nova.

Terracina      :        Tempio di Giove Anxur,  Ch San Cesario

Hotel (+23):      Villa Selma –Viale Circe 154 tel 0773731609

                        Le Mole – Via Appia 220 tel 0773772188

Camp              Villagio Romantico – Via Flacca km 0,45 (open 31/3) tel 0773727620

 

Sectie II:  Terracina  -  Mondragone (83 km)  -  Langs de kust

           

  1. Route:  Terracina – Monte San Biagio (18 km)

We did not walk, but took the train from Fossa Nova.  Hotel in Monte San Biagio at the foot of the mountain.  Nice walk up.

Monte S Biagio      borgo

Hotel:               Valle Marina – Via Appia km 110 tel 07-71551001

                        La pergola - Via Vecchia 32 tel 07-7156048

     

  1. Route:  Monte San Biagio – Fondi - Itri – Formia (30 km)

SS 7 (Via Appia) to Fondi is level and rather busy, but manageable.  After Fondi rapidly climbing and then descending to Itri.  Just below the pass a recovered piece of the old Via Appia.  After Itri very busy, dangerous and not possible to walk.  From station Itri every two hours a train to Formia.  In Formia the San Erasmo church is inetresting.  Continue on a good pavement along the Via Appia.  Hotel Europa is 2 km out of town (south).

Itri

Hotel (+3)        Vittoria – Via Ripa 1  tel 07-71727168

                        Fra Diavolo – Corso Appio Claudio (lato Roma) tel 07-71727141

Rel                   Santuario S.Maria della Civita reparto Pio IX.  Pasionisti.

                        13 km da Itri sul Monte Civita  tel.0771-727116  of 721360

Agri                 Valle Itri – Contrada Terragone (lag. Sperlonga) tel 0771727641

Formia            Tomba di Cicerone (outside town) – Ch San Erasmo

      Hotel (+9)              Little Garden – Via S. Janni tel 0771723060

                                    Europa – Via Appia Lato Napoli 100 tel 0771790037

      Rel                         Villa Maria – Via Paone 61 Loc Vindicio tel 0771 21657

      Camp                    Gianola – Via delle Vigne Gianola (open ¼)  tel 0771 720223

 

6/7 Alternative:  Terracina - Lido di Fondi – Sperlonga – Gaeta – Formia (40 km)

Along the beach, past  Gaeta, roads are very busy

Sperlonga

Hotel(+3)                Stella di Tirreno – Via Lago Lungo 11 tel 07-7154667

Torre Capovento – Via Flacca km 17 tel 07-71548328

      Rel                    Ostello per la gioventu “Marina degli ulivi”0771-549296

      Camp                Sette bello – Via Flacca km 3,6 (open 1/3) tel 0771 599132

      Gaeta               borgo – Ch San Giovanni a mare – Ch San Erasmo - castello

      Hotel (+15)           Rupi sul Mare – Via spiaggia ariana 18 tel 0771 461634/744335

                                               Rock Garden – Via Torino 14 tel 07-71461791

 

  1. Route:  Formia - Minturno – Baia Domizia – Le Vagnole – Mondragone (35 km)

Via Appia is busy, but wide and manageable.  After the bridge over the Garliano a quiet little road to the right.  First along the river, then through the fields, then campings, then an enormous complex of holiday appartments and hotels (Baia Domizia).  At the very end of Baia Domizia a narrow footbridge to Baia San Felice.  From there back to the SS 7.  At  Le Vagnole near hotel Sinuessa (baths), cut through to the beach and along the beach to Mondragone (a messy town).  Hotel Le Rose Rosse is south of the town on the main road (as messy as the town).

Minturno         Citta Romana

Camp              Golden Garden – Via Dunale 7476  (open 15/4)  tel 0771 614985

Baia Domizia/Cellole

Hotel (+7)        Montecuollo – via Freda 163 tel 0823933201

                        Park – Via dei Cyclamini tel 0823930111

Mondragone  Termi (Sinuessa)

Hotel(+4)         Sinuessa – Via Domiziana km 14 (Le Vagnole) tel 0823772017

                        Le Rose Rosse – Via Micheangelo Buonarotti tel 0823978746

 

 

Sectie III  Mondragone – Benevento (98 km)  -  Into the interior

 

  1. Route:  Mondragone - Trivio de Cancela – Brezza – Capua (30 km)

The turn-off from the SS 7 direction Capua is 1,5 km after the last traffic light in Mondragone (no signs).  The country roads in teh plain are straight and quiet and OK.  At Capua the hotels are across the river (Ponte Leproso) and past the old town.  The old town is nice and interesting.  

Capua:            Museo, ponte Leproso,  Ch San Stefano e Agatha

Hotel:               Mediterraneo – Via Giulio Cesare Falco 26 tel 0823961575

                        Capys – Via S. Maria La Fossa 24 tel 0823961299

Rel                   Seminarium Campanum – Via Seminario (in centro) tel 0823961171

 

8/9 Alternative:  Cellole – Sessa Aurunca – Carinola - Capua

Sessa Aurunca is an important place on the old Via Appia, but the SS 7 is a busy road  and there seem to be few hotels

Carinola

Hotel                      Le due Cannate  Via Appia km 180  tel 0823 709104

 

  1. Route:  Capua - S. Angelo Formis – Castel Morrone –  S. Agatha de Goti (32 km)

The road to S Angelo is poorly signposted (ask).  The (splendid) basilica lies 1 km above S. Angelo and only opens at 9.30.  From there the road to Castel Morone, climbing300 m.  (alternative is to follow the busy road in the valley a bit longer and then take the path along the river).  After Limatola still a long way.  Across the railway, first right, after 100 m left.  The road to S. Agatha climbs strongly.  S. Agatha is a very nice, compact little town. 

SantÁngelo    Ch Basilica

Sant Agatha      Ch Maria Annunciata – Ch San Menna

Hotel               Locanda del Borgo antico – Palazzo Parigi

Agri                 Azienda Mustili – Via dei Fiori 20  tel 0823 717433

 

  1. Route:  S Agatha - Moiano – Airola - Montesarchio – Benevento (36 km)

Beautiful mountain road to Airola, then through the valley.  Montesarchio is a messy town and the road to Beneventum is very busy, not to walk.  There is a bus every half hour.  Beneventum is a splendid town, worth a stay.

Airola              Museo

Rel                   Passionisti – Via Monte Oliveto 74 tel 0823 711293

Montesarchio

Hotel (+2)        La siesta – Via Vitulanese 123 tel 0824834675

                        Campo Verde – Via benevento 167 tel 0824834833

Benevento       Sannio Museo – Ch Duomo – Ch Santa Sofia

Hotel (+3)        Genova – Viale principe di Napoli 103 tel 082442926

                        Della Corte – Piazza piano del corte 11 tel 082454819

Rel                   Centro la pace, Contrada Monte della Guardi tel: 0824347004.

 

Section IV:  Benevento  -  Venosa (125 km)   -  Across the mountains

 

  1. Route: Beneventum – San Giorgio de Sannio (13 km)

Leave town via the corso Atlantico.  At the end left, direction S. Giorgio.  Then direction Foggia, across the Via Appia.

San Giorgio

Hotel:               Villa San Marco – C da Monterone Via Appia 273 tel 0824338357

                        Ricci  Park, Via Italia 90 tel 0824-338357

Agri                 Azienda Tuffini - Loc Tuffini  tel 0824 779043 / 779139

                        Casino Grande – C da Recupo tel 0824 337048

 

  1. Route:  San Giorgio del Sannio – Calore - Grottaminarda (23 km)

First a piece Via Appia direction Mirabella/Autostrada.  Through Calore, then a nice quiet road via Mirabella.  Direction Passo de Mirabella (not indicated, ask).  On the passo some (expensive) hotels.  Grottominarda is not worth looking at, hotels are in the centre close to the Autostrada.

Grottaminarda      Archeological museum

Hotel:               Carina – Via valle 121 tel 0825441731

                        Di Leo Maddalena – Via Fontanelle 17 tel 0825446689

 

12/13 Alternative:  Benevento – Apice – Grottominarda

Teh road is probably more quiet and nicer.

Apice                    

Rel                                          Conv San Antonio .Cappuccini  tel 0824920052

 

  1. Route:  Grottaminarda - Bisaccia Vecchia (37 km)

From hotel Carina a small road across the Autostrada, at the end left towards the SS 91 to Flumeri.  Follow the SS 91 a bit untill a vast intersection. Take the4 lane highway to the right (very little traffic).  After 2 km industrial zone the highway becomes a quiet country road, very nice and walkable.  Climbs steadily from 400 m to 900 m..  At the end the SS91 (hardly any traffic).  Cross the  SS 91 , country road via Oscata to Bisaccia Nuova (not worth a look).  Left 1 km to Bisaccia Vecchia.  Very nice little village, restored, castle, church.  Highest point to Bari (900 m).

Lacedonia

Rel                         Inst. Cercione, Figlie S.Anna, Via G. Battista Vico 89 tel 082785017

Bisaccia          Castel Ducale, Borgo, Ch Convento

Hotel:               Grillo d’oro (Bisaccia Vecchia) Via Mancini 195  tel 082789278

 

  1.  Route:  Bisaccia - Aquilonia – Lago di Monticchio (28 km)

Beautiful quiet mountain road (we were completely in the clouds)  After Aquilonia (750 m) descending sharply to the river Ofanto.  Cross the valley direction Melfi, Monticchio Bagni, climbing again sharply to Monticchio Laghi, two crater lakes,  734 m.  Hotels in Monticchio Bagni , also by the lake.  The official road runs right around the lake, but turning left, between the two lakes is much shorter.  The Abbazia is closed. 

Aquilonia

Laghi di Monticchio      Abbazia S. Michele

      Hotel                     Parco Eudria – Strada 167 tel 0972731007

Camp                    Europa – Via Lago Grande 28 (open 1/3)  tel 0972 731008

 
14/15 Alternative:  Grottaminarda – S Angelo dei Lombardi – Calitri – Monticchio

Sant’Angelo

Hotel:                     Grand Hotel Cicchetti ****  - via Petrile  tel 0827215045

Rel                          Abbazia San Guglielmo – Contrada San Guglielmo tel 082724432

Calitri

Hotel:                     Miramonti – Via Pittoli  tel 082734020

                                                Ambasciatori – Via Toscana (Parco Tozzoli) tel 082734872/3

 

16.   Route:  Lago de Monticchio -  Rionero -  Venosa (24km)

Sharp climb to the edge of the crater, then rapid descend to Rionero.  Nice quiet way (for us in the clouds).  Rionero is messy.  Road to Bartile (not signposted, ask).  Right towards Ginestra, descending sharply towards the river, then climbing again.  After Ginestra a reasonable road, descending slowly to Venosa. Good hotel in the centre.

Rionero

Hotel (+4)        Monticchio – Via Roma 213  tel 0972721047

                        Villa Maria – Via Belvedere  tel 0972731025

Rel                   Inst M. Misericordiae - Piazza Cap. Plastino 4 tel 0972-721192/722387

Rapolla           Ch Duomo           

Hotel               Terme di Rapolla – Via Melfi 142  tel 0972760113

Melfi               Castello, Ch Duomo

      Hotel (+5)              La Mondolfiera – ex zuccherificio tel 097278971

                                    Il Castagneto – ss 401 km 3  tel 0972236487

      Rel                         Oasi Tabor- Missionari Vincenziani.  Via C.Colombo. tel. 0972237371

      Venosa                  Palazzo Ducale, Abbazia della Trinita, Ch Duomo

      Hotel (+1)              Orazio - C SO V Emanuele 142  tel 097231135

                                    Albergo Villa del sonriso – Via Appia 135  tel 097235975

           

Section V:  Venosa  -  Bari (110 km)  - Through the olive groves of Puglia

      17.  Route:  Venosa - Montemilone – Minervino (26 km)

Past the Abbazia, descending, across the railwayline, through the fields, a nice quiet road, climbing gently to Montemilone.  Descending towards the irrigation lake (with very little water).  After coming round the lake the second road to the right, through the olive groves.  Minervino lies on a steep hill, hotel in the centre of town.

Palazzo San Gervasio

      Hotel                     Villa Ester – ss 168 km 30  tel 097244720

Minervino       Borgo, Ch Duomo

Hotel               Archangelo – Piazza Bovio

 

18. Route:  Minervino - Castel del Monte – Corato (38 km)
SS 170 to C. del Monte (we took the bus).  Expensive hotel at castel.  Onwards to Corato a good quiet road, through olive groves.  Nice town, B&B in centre.
C. del Monte      Castello Svevo
Corato            Ch S Maria Maggiore

Rel                   Oasi Nazareth  - Via Castel del monte  km 3. tel. 0808980- 670/762

B&B                Dimora, Vico Gisotti 4, ang. Via Roma tel 080-8722153                .

19.  Route:  Corato – Ruvo  (8 km)

Road to Ruvo. After the hospital, right of the road, a deserted country lane through beautiful olive groves.

Ruvo               Ch Duomo, borgo

Hotel               Talos – Via Morandi 12  tel 0803611645

                        Pineta – Via C. Marx 5  tel 0803611578

 

20.  Route:  Ruvo – Terlizzi – Bitonto (20 km)

Provincial road, rather busy but good to walk. After Terlizzi, when the road bends to the left, a country lane straight ahead, through olive groves.  Religious institute in Bitonto in the centre of town (but gave us no reply in the afternoon).  Hotel also central.
Terlizzi            Ch Duomo
Bitonto            Ch Duomo, borgo

Hotel (+1)        Nuovo – Via E. Ferrara 21  tel 0803751178

                        Predis – Via Mudongo ss98 km 75  tel 0803744830

Rel                   Opera Anna de Renzio.Via Pta.Robustina 13.tel.08037-14313 of 39878

 

21.  Route:  Bitonto – Bari (18 km)
Leave town on Via Gen. Planelli, direction aeroporto.  Close to the Autostrada right, after 500 m left, country road.  Runs for 10km where it develops into a wide tarmac road in industrial complex.  Go straight in the direction of a church steeple untill shopping centre Carrefour.  You area few km from Bari, but is not reasonable to walk anymore.  Take here the city bus to Piazza A. Moro (statione).  Simple hotels are close to statione.  Bari is a surprisingly pleasant and interesting town.  Basilica and shrine of San Nicolas are a rewarding and fitting goal for a pilgrim.
Bari                 Ch Basilica S. Nicola, Ch S. Sabino, castello, museo, borgo

Rel                   inst. Santissimo Redentore.Via Martiri d’Otranto 65. tel.0805797482

Oasi San Martino. Viale Rosalba 60a. tel. 08056105909 (weekdagen)

      Hotel(+10)            Romeo, Via Crisantio 12 (statione) tel 080-5237253/5216352

 

If you are interested (and can read Dutch) ask for a brief  journal, with pictures (12 pages) from: Klaas van der Poel, Oldenbarneveldweg 7 Wassenaar, tel 070-5117186, [email protected]